“After shoes and bags, Roger Vivier, part of the Tod’s Group, present their perfumes for Autumn 2010 to be sold exclusively in their boutiques”. (Today we found the video accompanying the news via dailymotion, see below) Five new fragrances in extrait developed by Rami Mekdachi, lined-up like a niche line based on raw materials (La Rose, Le Sandal, L’Iris, L’Ambre, Le Néroli) & identical-designed
Tauer Perfumes will launch two new fragrances at the end of September, Eau d’Épices and Une Rose Vermeille…
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“What is fashionable is not always glamorous, and glamour has not always been fashionable” says Carol Dyhouse (p.3), in her entertaining and thought-provoking Glamour: Women, History, Feminism. Glamour, and a taste for it, have morphed in the wake of social and cultural trends, economic swings, and increasing financial independence for women. Though frequently dismissed as yet another manifestation of women’s conformity and subjugation to men, glamour can be, according to Dyhouse, a form of assertive femininity, an expression of power, defiance, transgression and aspiration.
Across this richly illustrated, seven-chapter book, images and embodiments of glamour unfold chronologically from the late nineteenth century to the present. Along with the usual suspects (feathers and furs, “Cleopatra” eyes, bias-cut gowns, red lipstick), Dyhouse presents the less obvious glamour of second-wave feminism (Germaine Greer, Erica Jong, Gloria Steinem) and high-end grunge. Analyzing the content of popular fiction, cinema, women’s magazines and several published surveys, Dyhouse tells the story of how English women have embraced — or eschewed — glamour in their daily lives. With the widespread allure of Hollywood films in the 1930s (imagine the screen as a canvas of black and white, where texture and light, glittering fabrics and jewels take precedence over color), and the trans-Atlantic “youthquake” of the 60s, American cultural influences often play a key part in this scenario. As the decades pass, from the 70s’ “natural look” to the showy, conspicuous consumption of the 1980s, glamour gradually loses its edge.
With evolving fashion came new fragrances…
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Gorilla Perfume at Lush The Smell of Freedom, Imogen Rose, Orange Blossom, Lust & The Smell of Weather Turning ~ new fragrances
Gorilla Perfume at Lush, a new label introduced earlier this year with Tuca Tuca, has introduced five new fragrances, and a number of older Lush perfumes have now been folded into the Gorilla Perfume line. All of the fragrances were created by Mark Constantine, founder of Lush, and/or his son, Simon.
Older Lush perfumes now under the Gorilla Perfume name include Ginger, Flower Market, Icon, Vanillary and Karma. Eleven perfumes from the defunct B Never Too Busy line are also included in the new effort: Dirty, Ladyboy, 1000 Kisses Deep, Dear John, Cocktail, Breath of God, Inhale & Exhale, B Scent, Superworld Unknown and Love.
The five new fragrances are The Smell of Freedom, Imogen Rose, Orange Blossom, Lust and The Smell of Weather Turning…
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Keiko Mecheri has launched two new fragrances, Attar de Roses and Les Zazous.
Attar de Roses (shown) ~ “Taif roses of Arabia, one of Keiko’s favourite ingredients opens the composition…”
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Bois 1920 Le Voluttuose ~ new perfumes
Italian niche line Bois 1920 has launched three new fragrances for women under the name Le Voluttuose: Kimono Rose, La Vaniglia and Notturno Fiorentino.
Kimono Rose (shown) ~ “Kimono Rose is a homage to femininity…”
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Roberto Cavalli has launched two new fragrances in the youth-oriented Just Cavalli line: I Love Her and I Love Him.
Just Cavalli I Love Her ~a floral transparent fragrance…
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Two new fragrances are getting issued from French-based brand extraordinaire Etat Libre d’Orange this coming autumn 2010. News had leaked at the beginning of the year, but now it is officially confirmed. And the first of them demands its own dissection since it hinges on several cultural axes and one relating the political with the “scentsical”; always within the scope of Perfume Shrine.Le Parfum
French niche line Lubin has launched four new fragrances — the Métalliques collection — inspired by the “olfactory themes” of their Vétiver and L’Eau Neuve fragrances. Itasca and Bluff are versions of Vétiver, Figaro and Inédite of L’Eau Neuve…
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Escale aux Marquises is the third fragrance to join the Escale collection at Christian Dior (see also: Escale à Portofino and Escale à Pondichéry). Like the others, it’s done in a fresh cologne style (in the citrus aromatic family); this one pays tribute in particular to the tiare flower. And like the others, I rather enjoyed it when I tried it quickly in the store while testing umpteen other new fragrances, but much of the luster wore off after I took it home and spent some time with it.
Marquises opens with peppery, heavy-on-the-lemon citrus (the notes: blood orange, pink pepper, cardamom, pepper, cinnamon, ginger, clove, nutmeg, coriander, elemi, lemon peel, tiare, freesia, benzoin and vanilla). It is mildly spicy in the early stages, but it is not as vibrant or exotic as you might expect from the list of notes…
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